Trollheimen

Trollheimen

6 day backpacking trip from Fale to Gjevilvasshytta

After two days my knee feels much better! My knee is only a little bit stiff but we can hike further. It’s early when we get up Mondy morning. Everyone at the campsite is still sleeping, it’s half past four. But we want to take the bus at 6 and it’s a fifteen-minute walk to the bus stop. Exact at 6 o’clock the bus arrives. For a single ride for two people, you pay about 10 euros. Around 20 minutes past 6 we arrive at the stop Fale, and about 10 minutes later we start with our hike through Trollheimen.

Day 1: Fale – near Storvatnet close to Innerdalen
Walking hours: 5h
Photo moments: 3h30
Distance: 14.5km
Altitude: 1200m ascent, 600m descent

The first part we walk through some pastures. After these pastures, we walk through a very dense forest with a lot of birch trees. We can’t see a lot. After a very steep climb of 600m, we are above the treeline. From now we have again a beautiful view of the valley below. It’s becoming hot in the sun now we are above the tree line. After a short break, we walk further in shorts and t-shirt. Who would have thought that in September in Norway? From now it’s still a climb of 300m but it’s less steep than the last 600m through to forest. The track follows the mountainside for a while. We walk to the crossing Fale – Flatvaddalen – Tverrådalen. Down we can see the village Grøa.

Just before we walk into the valley Flatvaddalen we take a short break. My knee is clearly not yet fully healed. It hurts again. Fortunately, we had in mind to set up to the tarp at the lake Storvatnet. It’s about 6km walk until there so we can take our time. Once we are in the valley we pass numerous lakes with the name Lauvåtjønnin. Now it’s about 250m descending to the lake Storvatnet. After about 2km we can see the lake Langvatnet. We can see the peaks Skarfjellet and Snøfjellet much better now. These peaks surround the valley Innerdalen. Moments later we can see the following lake. Now we have an amazing view over Skarfjellet and the lake Storvatnet.

Once we are at the lake Storvatnet, we see a lot of good spots set up the trailstar. Because of the many spots, we walk around the lake today. We find a nice spot very close to the end of the lake. The view is wonderful. It’s not useful to go any further today. Either we need to camp in the moor at Innerdalen, where it’s very difficult to find a dry place for the tarp. Or we need to camp at the hut. While we are eating another hiker passes us. This is the only other hiker we have seen today. We go to bed very early, it was early this morning! At night I get up to take some pictures of the starry sky but there are again too many clouds.

Day 2: Near Storvatnet –  at the North of the lake Bjøråvatnet
Walking hours: 5h
Photo moments: 4h
Distance: 12.5km
Altitude: 800m ascent, 900m descent

When we wake up, it’s already beautiful weather. It’s still a bit cold but the sun shines. We take our backpacks and start the descent to Innderdalen. This valley would be one of the most beautiful in Norway. Soon we walk through the forest. Now and then we can see Innerdalen or the surrounding peaks. In the forest, we take a small break at a small waterfall.

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Once we arrive at the huts Innerdalshytta and Gammelsetra, there are a few groups that are ready to go climbing. Innderdalen is known for this in the area. Therefore we walk further and soon leave the crowds behind us. Now we start the climb to the mountain pass at an altitude of 1178m in the direction of the lake Bjøråskaret. After following a river for about 1.5km we take the direction to Kårvatn. From now it’s an ascent of about 500 meters to the highest point of the mountain pass.

Halfway the climb to the mountain pass we have a great view over Renndalen, Flatvaddalen and Innerdalen. Here we take a short break to take some panoramic photos. Once we have reached to top of the pass we have a wider view of the surroundings. We take a little break to enjoy it.

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From now we start the descent to Kårvatn but we don’t go to the hut today. We want to set up the tarp before we reach the hut. Through a field of boulders, we pass the lake Bjøråskaret. From then the boulders go over into a moor. We pass the crossing to Midtryggen and moments later we find a nice spot to bivouac. We are very close to a river, it quickly cools down.

Day 3: At the North of the lake Bjøråvatnet – near Kvennjulfjellet
Walking hours: 4h30
Photo moments: 4h
Distance: 15km
Altitude: 650m ascent, 700m descent

When we wake up we are completely surrounded by fog. It isn’t raining but we are getting wet because of the very dense fog. So we take our bags and start our hike. The first hour of the day we walk through a swampy moor. Or shoes have to endure hard, they are very filthy especially because we don’t have gaiters with us. We found them too heavy to take with us. For this problem, we need to find an alternative by the next trip. After 4km we are at the gravel road that we need to follow to Kårvatn

We follow this road for about 2,5km. The sun is shining now and our shoes can dry a bit. At the hut Kårvatn, we take a break of an hour. I wash our zip-off pants and we let them dry. There’s a shop here “Kårvatn fjellutstyr” but we don’t know what they sell. It isn’t open today. Maybe because we are here out of the high season. The sun is shining very well so after a little hour, our trousers are dry. Now we can walk in the direction of the waterfall Nauståfossen. This a very beautiful waterfall. The track goes along it, that’s why you can see it from very different views. We take the time to take some photos of it.

We climb about 200 meters and from there we are above the tree line. In the forest, we can enjoy eating hundreds of blueberries. We walk almost all the time beside the river Nauståa. After a while, we cross the river Tverråa over with a bridge. But without the bridge, it was also easy to cross. At the bridge, we make our dinner ready. Because we want to walk a few hours further. We pass two hunters, these are the first hunters we see in Trollheimen. After we have eaten, we collect some blueberries for tonight and tomorrow morning breakfast. Fresh fruit at breakfast that tastes always! Then we walk further towards Trollheimshytta. We still walk close to the river Nauståa.

Around 7 pm we find a place for our bivouac. It was not easy to find a nice spot in this moor. A half an hour ago, the surface was relatively dry. Here it is again quite swampy. A good test for our new inner tent. Charlotte makes a timelapse of me while I set up the trailstar. Then we make us ready to go to sleep.

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Day 4: Near Kvennjulfjellet – near Slettåmoen close to Trollheimshytta
Walking hours: 5h30
Photo moments: 3h45
Distance: 19km
Altitude: 500m ascent, 600m descent

When we get up, we are very satisfied with the inner tent, it has kept us dry. Unfortunately, the sun is still behind the mountain peaks. We let our stuff dry during the lunch break, here it’s too swampy. Around half past ten, we start our hike. It’s still a 2.5 km ascent to the lake Naustådalsvatnet. At the end of the Lake we pass a hunter’s cabin, here we meet also 2 hunters.

When we have passed the lake it is about a hundred metres ascent through a boulder field. From then on we start to descend to the lake Salsvatnet Øvre. We walk here as good as all the time over a solid rock surface. Occasionally we have to cross some rivers via stepping stones. At the end of the lake, we take a lunch break and let the trailstar, inner tent and sleeping bags dry. After the break, we pack our backpacks and we hike further to the Salsvatnet Nedre. We walk here through a moor. At the end of the lake, we get for the first time a view of the Snota. We also get the peaks Neådalssnota and Salen beautiful in sight. When we have passed the lake, we have a nice view over the valley Fagerlidalen. There is a marked path through this valley but it’s not a DNT route.

From now on we walk through the moor Fugisøysetra, the marking of the path is missing at many places so we navigate our self through the area. We just need to see that we avoid the marshlands. At one moment I fall till my groin in the peat. It was a bit scary and here I am with my soaked walking shoe. This will not be easy to dry. But we walk further, we will have a river crossing via stepping stones. At this river, we take a short break to make our dinner all ready. After dinner, we walk further because here there is no place to set up the trailstar.

After a while we reach the river Folda, we cross the river over with a bridge. We are pleased that there is a bridge. It is a deep and raging river. Now we start to look for a place to set up the trailstar. We are tired it was a long day! And my knee hurts a lot again. Unfortunately, we don’t climb the Snot. They count at DNT between 8 to 10 hours without a heavy backpack. So that will not work with my knee.

It starts to get dark. We hope to find a place for our tarp before we reach the cabin Trollheimshytta. Approximately one kilometre from the hut we find a place. We are close to an open bog. Around us, it is quite marshy but our place is drier than that of the previous night. For the first time, we see some mosquitoes. Charlotte tries the new product of Care Plus without deet. I think it is not yet necessary. We go quickly in the inner tent, it doesn’t take long before we go to sleep.

Day 5: Near Slettåmoen close to Trollheimshytta – at the lake Fossådalsvatnet
Walking hours: 3h30
Photo moments: 3h30
Distance: 11km
Altitude: 900m ascent, 200m descent

When we get up, my legs are full of mosquito bites. They are still active in September! Charlotte has no mosquito bites so we can assume that the new product works. Today we will walk towards the hut Gjevilvasshytta, but we bivouac somewhere between Trollheimshytta and Gjevilvasshytta.

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The climb over the mountain ridge to the top Skallen is relatively steep, it’s a 700 meters ascent to at the top. Along the way, we stop regularly to enjoy the landscape. We also get a nice view of the Snota all the time. After a 700 metres climb, are we at the top of the Skallen. We take the time to enjoy the landscape. I make some panoramas and Charlotte makes a time-lapse.

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From the top we walk towards the lake Fossådalsvatnet over the plain Mellomfjellet, we go up and down through the boulder fields. When we are at the top Skåvegen we see some beautiful rock formations, We see here also the first hikers of today. They are hiking to the cabin Trollheimshytta. We descend further to the Lakes Mellomfjelltjønnin. Here we pass a group of students with some teachers. From then we are back alone. We can already see the lake Fossådalsvatnet, at this lake we set up our trailstar.

We walk around the Lake Fossådalsvatnet, just before the path becomes steeper, we find a beautiful, flat place to set up the tarp. We are so close to the lake, we even have a private black sand beach to ourselves. Too bad there is here such a strong wind, what makes it pretty cold. Charlotte is going to prepare dinner and I’m going set up the trailstar in the meantime. Just when I’m finished with the trailstar we get our first rain of this holiday over us. Therefore we eat for the first time our dinner under the tarp. After our dinner, I experiment with my big stopper at the Lake. After a while, the dense fog is coming to the mountains. So we crawl into our sleeping bag.

 Day 6: At the lake Fossådalsvatnet – Gjevilvasshytta
Walking hours: 3h30
Photo moments: 1h30
Distance: 13km
Altitude: 250m ascent, 750m descent

We are woken up a few times by some gunshots by hunters. That is probably the reason why we still have no reindeer seen. We are lucky the trailstar and inner tent are completely dry. That should be with the wind pounded the all night on the trailstar. We let the sleeping bags also dry. Normally we don’t need the trailstar anymore tonight, we want to sleep in the cabin Gjevilvasshytta tonight. Around half past ten, we start with the last few kilometres up to the hut. We hope that there is place in the cabin because you can only book if you are in a group. And it’s the last evening that the cabin is open.

Right away we climb about 100 meters. And from then on we descend towards the hut Gjevilvasshytta. At the top, we get a beautiful view over the lake Kamtjønnin and the lake Fossådalsvatnet. We walk here over a simple boulder field.

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At the end of the second lake Kamtjønnin, we meet four hikers. They wonder if we are coming from the cabin Trollheimshytta today. We tell them that we bivouac between the huts. From now on it is another 500 metres descent to the hut. We choose to continue the DNT trail. There is a different route through the Tverrbekken Moor and the river. The route seems to be shorter on a map but the hikers who have chosen this route, need to find a way through this marshy area.

The descent over the plain is easy. But my knee is hurting again. We meet many hikers, they are going to the cabin Trollheimshytta. They have all the same question if we are coming from the cabin Trollheimshytta. After a seven-kilometre hike, we get the gigantic lake Gjevillvatnet in sight. It’s now a descent of 300 meters to the cabin. From now on there are a lot of hikers.

Around 3 pm we arrive at the cabin. There are a lot of people at the cabin. We decide to try to hitchhike further to Gjelan. We’re lucky after less than five minutes someone stops for us. Our paper with our destination is just finished. An old pickup with 2 seats stops for us. He would take us to the main road but I need to sit in the trunk. This is normally not allowed but the road on which we drive is a toll road and normally there is no police on this road. Our driver turns out to be a dentist who also does hiking and hunting. He was sawing wood for the winter. After a 15 minutes road trip we are already in Gjelan. This village lies along the E70, we take here an hour later, the bus to Oppdal. In Oppdal we take a night in a hotel and then we travel by train back to Oslo Gardermoen airport.

Here you can find the gps track.

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